Riding the Pecatonica State Trail
By Dena Nechkash
Since I started working with the Belmont Tourism group, I’ve heard more and more about the Pecatonica State Trail, but I hadn’t spent much time on it. When I lived in Belmont several years ago, I would walk a mile or two of the trail, but I never experienced it as a whole.
A friend helped me get that experience on a very warm spring evening. With temperatures rounding out in the mid-90s in mid-May, I was exceptionally pleased to learn of the air conditioning feature in her Ranger. It made it a pleasant evening to be out on the trail!
The Pecatonica State Trail is an ATV/UTV trail following the former railroad bed connecting Belmont to Calamine in Lafayette County, WI. In the winter months it is also a snowmobile trail. It connects to the Cheese Country Trail at Calamine, where you can head north to Mineral Point or south to Darlington and even Monroe. You can find the Lafayette County ATV Trail Map here.
We started where the Pecatonica State Trail merges with the Mound View State Trail (a non-motorized biking/walking trail connecting Platteville and Belmont). This paved section of the trail leads you into beautiful downtown Belmont. It’s worth a stop to grab a bite to eat or a beverage to cool down. There are several bars/restaurants right along the trail: McCarville’s My Turn Pub, Ripper’s Saloon and Sportspage Bar & Supper Club. And check out the mural on Commerce Street, just to the south of the bars.
A couple blocks from the downtown area, the trail passes Bond Park, the community’s largest park. It has a walking/exercise trail, ball diamonds and playground equipment. It is also along the stream and is a very pretty backdrop for pictures.
From there we headed out of town and made our way to Calamine. This segment featuring all gravel trails is approximately 10 miles long. It follows the Bonner Branch stream, which itself is a beautiful sight. Along the trail you can see a variety of farming practices, from modern to Amish, and even find a roadside stand with flowers and canned goods. Closer to Calamine, a couple of ponds are adjacent to the trail, allowing for waterfowl sightings.
At Calamine, the Pecatonica State Trail crosses a wooden bridge adjacent to the large, green, metal bridge spanning the Pecatonica River. There is a boat landing under the bridge and this is where Darlington’s Canoe Race kicks off the second weekend in June for its annual Canoe Fest. At Calamine you either merge onto the Cheese Country Trail to head to Mineral Point or Darlington, or you turn around and head back to Belmont.
Our trip to Calamine and back to Belmont took a couple of hours. We weren’t hurrying as we took in the beautiful spring flowers and wildlife appearances along the trail. We saw deer, raccoon, Canada geese, and ducks. It was a very enjoyable time catching up with a friend and taking in nature’s beauty.
And if you aren’t from around the area, the Quality Inn & Suites in Belmont has easy access to the Pecatonica State Trail. They have trailer parking and the Crazy Cow Saloon to unwind after a long day on the trail!
Rural Electrification
The village of Boaz was recently in the news for an Alliant Energy project establishing a microgrid to improve the reliability of power to this small community in the event of an outage or service interruption.
Boaz is known for its electrical history. After overcoming a mountain of obstacles, electric co-op lines were built and energized: the lights came on.
Rural electrification officially came to Wisconsin on May 7, 1937, when Richland Electric Cooperative went into service. The Hanold farm, located along Hwy. 14 approximately 1 mile east of Boaz, was the first farm to be hooked up to a rural electrical system that day. In Wisconsin, electric co-op leaders have achieved numerous “firsts,” including the creation of the nation’s first statewide association for Rural Electric Cooperatives (RECs), publishing the nation’s first statewide publication for REC members, creating one of the premier generation and transmission cooperatives in the country, founding an insurance company that now underwrites coverage for a majority of RECs in the U.S., organizing the first merchandising co-op to supply RECs in numerous states with line materials, and other innovations. (source: www.WECA.coop)
Ice Hiking in Vernon County
By Dena Nechkash
Sometimes it is easier to just stay at home in winter, where it’s warm and familiar. But then sometimes your system needs to be recharged, shocked into action. Winter is only cold and unbearable if you make it so. Wearing the right gear, you can do anything in the cold! And Southwest Wisconsin has plenty to offer in winter.
After weeks of being too busy to explore something new, or letting the weather dictate what I did or didn’t do, I managed to escape to a winter wonderland in Vernon County on Valentine’s Day. And it was a magical day of getting lost and finding hidden gems at the Kickapoo Valley Reserve.
While looking online for ice formations to explore in northern Wisconsin last year, I stumbled across the Kickapoo Valley Reserve’s ice formations and hiking options. I wasn’t able to visit last winter, but made the time to get there this year. And I wasn’t disappointed! The drive from Platteville was under two hours, the trails were easy enough to manage (if you go into it expecting lots and lots of hills) and after a day of exploring I was still able to make it home for supper.
Below you should find all of the details you will need to plan your own ice hiking adventure in the Kickapoo Valley Reserve!
What is the KVR?
Located just north of LaFarge in Vernon County, the Kickapoo Valley Reserve is an 8,569 acre parcel of public land preserving the high scenic hills, bluffs and rock outcroppings that rise several hundred feet above the river valley floor. The Kickapoo River meanders wildly throughout the reserve, zig-zagging south and west for miles before emptying into the Wisconsin River near Wauzeka.
The LaFarge area was occupied by the Kickapoo tribe until early settlers arrived in the late 1830s. LaFarge was continually flooded and, in 1962, through the Flood Control Act, Congress enacted the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers to build a flood control dam, what was known as the LaFarge Lake Project. The land was purchased, the homes and buildings removed and construction began on an earthen dam. At only 39 percent complete, the dam project was halted in 1975 due to economic and environmental concerns. Learn more about what happened here – I assure you there is a LOT more to this story.
The property was untouched for 20 years, during which nature gradually reclaimed the land. In 1996, approximately 1,200 acres were returned to the Ho-Chunk Nation and the remainder was turned over to the State of Wisconsin to preserve the land.
Now the property is open for public recreational use, including snowmobile, horseback riding, hiking, biking, bird watching and more. There is a fee to use the park. Find out more here.
Plenty to See/Do
The Kickapoo Valley Reserve Center, located one mile north of LaFarge on Hwy. 82, should be your first stop when you arrive at the Kickapoo Valley Reserve. They have restrooms, maps, brochures and a great interpretation center explaining the important aspects of the reserve, including Native American lifestyle in the region, ecological importance and the flooding history. My favorite part was learning about the proposed dam and how the project was scrapped to preserve rare wildlife and artifacts. There’s a great image on display of the newspaper coverage of a fake funeral for all of the Congress members in charge of the project who took the peoples’ land.
In winter, the reserve is a hub of recreational activities, including cross country skiing, snowshoeing, hiking, biking, snowmobiling, bird watching, horseback riding and ice hiking. This article focuses on the ice hiking, although I can’t wait to visit in warmer weather to explore more of their trails and glimpse the park from my kayak on the Kickapoo River.
Here’s those blue ties I mention several times that are used to mark the trails for the ice features. Many have long tails like this, but some don’t and are much harder to find.
I actually used to live in Viola, just minutes away from the KVR, yet this was my first hiking adventure there. I’ve seen quite a few people posting online that they visited on the weekends this winter, so I purposefully planned my trip for a Monday with temps in the teens. The trails seemed well-traveled, too, and some were a little icy after thawing and refreezing. We even got a light dusting of snow that morning, which looked beautiful on the ice features.
I arrived at 11 a.m. and was the first person to visit the Weister Creek ice formations. I even drove past the parking area because I wasn’t really sure if it was the right spot. Once on the trail, it was only a half-mile hike to find the icy hillside. Spectacular! It was worth the visit. It reminded me of the Eben Ice Caves in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula.
Finding the second ice formation area was a little more challenging for me, mainly because I didn’t follow instructions. I got to the trailhead and just started walking on the well-traveled trail thinking I was where I needed to be. Nope. I ended up at the dam site and then found the covered bridge before I found my mistake on the map. I needed the West Ridge Trail, not the Old 131 Trail. The trailhead for both is at the same location.
Once I was on the right trail, it was clear it was the route to the ice formations – there were plenty of signs for the ice trail. The main trail diverts to a smaller, more difficult path to the features. With so many visitors, there were several false trails people created to explore other areas, making it difficult to know where to go. There were blue markers tied to trees, but there could have been more of them to clarify the official path. The snow-covered path was extremely steep and often ice-covered. It wouldn’t be an easy one if you have any knee or ankle injuries or little ones in tow. I found myself crawling on the ice to enter the rooms behind the ice curtains without breaking any icicles. Snow pants, boots, gloves and ice cleats are a must for this adventure.
The Valley of the Ice formations off of West Ridge Trail consists of a series of smaller rock shelters and ice curtains throughout this particular valley. You traverse the steep incline to find eight or more different icy scenes created from spring water dripping over the edges of eroding sandstone cliff sides. While the creek does appear to be frozen over, use caution on walking on it or you might fall through and have wet feet the rest of your trip. I recommend packing extra socks and shoes just in case it is a little slushy on your visit.
Weister Creek Ice Formations
Hike distance: approximately 1 mile round-trip
Hike difficulty: easy hike to get to the base of the ice formation, requires ice cleats to hike on the formations.
Getting there: From the Kickapoo Valley Reserve Center Parking lot on Hwy. 131 (where you purchase a parking pass and get a printed map), turn left/north on Hwy. 131, then left on Cty. Hwy. P. This will take you to Weister Creek Road on the left and the parking area for the Weister Creek Ice Formations is just a couple hundred feet from the intersection with Cty. Hwy. P, also on the left. You’ll see trail markers and a spring (you must purify the water if you plan to drink from it) near the road. There is a wooden snowmobile bridge straight ahead; once you cross this, take a left into the field. You’ll see a very large oak tree in the distance and near that you will find the trail follows the stream to the right. Look for the blue markers tied to the trees and follow the half-mile trail to the ice formations. There are some steep inclines on this trail if you climb to get a closer look.
Valley of the Ice Formations
Hike distance: approximately 2.5 miles total
Hike difficulty: easy hike to get to the valley, but the slope paired with snow and ice conditions make the hike to see the ice formations very difficult; you cannot see them without traversing the hillside. This hike requires ice cleats to hike to the formations; it is also recommended to have water-resistant pants and shoes, too.
Getting there: Continue on Weister Creek Road and in several miles turn left on Plum Run Road. Take this a couple more miles to Corps Road on the left and pull into the Kickapoo Valley Reserve Maintenance parking lot on the left. (Another way to get there from the KVR Center is to turn south/right on Hwy. 131 from the KVR Center parking lot, turn right on N. Seelyburg Road as you come into LaFarge and Corps Road is the 2nd drive on the right).
It’s important to know that several trails converge in this area. You want to take the West Ridge Trail, which starts at the end of the parking lot farthest away from Corps Road. The hike follows a very wide multi-use trail for maybe a mile before signs point you toward a deer path sized foot trail in the woods. Remember to look for the blue markers tied to trees to keep you on the right path. The ice formations are all on the north-facing slope. The trail winds you back toward the parking area and eventually emerges from the woods, depositing you back at the same multi-use trail you arrived on, just closer to your vehicle. In total, the hike is approximately 2.5 miles in length, but it is extremely challenging. Ice cleats are necessary.
Tips to make the most of your visit
- Ice cleats/spikes, snow pants, gloves – all are required for you to enjoy your visit, stay safe and remain dry.
- Make sure you know where you’re going; the maps and trail markings aren’t very detailed. They give you the general idea and leave you guessing a LOT.
- Order your parking pass here before your visit.
- Stop in the Kickapoo Valley Reserve Center for more details and some nice logo gear. They also have a donation box and welcome your donations to keep things going.
- Be prepared for challenging terrain. This is the Driftless area in Wisconsin, presenting very steep inclines.
- Bring a camera. The scenery is spectacular. You’re also likely to see some wildlife like deer, fox, rabbit, and a variety of birds.
- Know proper trail etiquette.
- There are guided ice hike tours; if you’d rather have a pro show you the way, sign up for one of these hikes at the KVR Center or online.
More to see in the area
- Check out the beautiful mural in downtown LaFarge.
- There’s a Rustic Road within the reserve.
- Organic Valley is based in LaFarge and a retail store is available.
- Ontario, approximately 14 miles north of KVR, is the Canoe Capital of the Kickapoo. If you want to paddle the winding Kickapoo River, this is the place to start with several renting companies available in the summer months: Drifty’s, Titanic and Mr. Duck’s.
- Ontario is also home to Wildcat Mountain State Park, with hilltop views of the KVR and surrounding area.
- Rockton boasts its “Almost World Famous” chicken on a sign outside the Rockton Bar.
- The Elroy-Sparta Bike Trail (with three tunnels) is just a 30 mile drive north of the KVR.
- Viroqua, the county seat, is known for its amazing murals, delicious restaurants and eclectic shopping.
- Hillsboro’s main attraction is the Hillsboro Brewing Company. Stop in to see this gorgeous facility and try whatever they have on tap.
- Looking for more places to hike? Check out Vernon County’s Parks, including my favorites: Duck Egg, Sidie Hollow and Black Hawk.
Winter Recreation
By Dena Nechash
The Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources has mapped out state properties accessible for winter activities like hiking, snowshoeing, cross country skiing and more! OutWiGo (Out We Go) is a statewide initiative encouraging everyone to improve their overall health and wellness by getting out and active in the outdoors, and they’ve even made a winter map!
Wisconsin features some amazingly beautiful scenery, no matter which season you choose to venture out in! This time of year look for ice-covered rock faces (even some mini ice caves) and vista views free of leafy branches. It’s easier to see wildlife like deer, fox and eagles, too. Grab your winter gear and get out and explore Southwest Wisconsin! Remember if you are on a trail designated for a specific use (cross country skiing, snowmobile, etc.), to follow the proper trail etiquette and prevent messing up the trail for other users. And remember state park admission stickers may be required to access these properties; additionally, a state trail pass may also be required.
And if you’re looking for trail reports for cross country skiing or snowmobiling, check out Travel Wisconsin’s awesome website.
First Capitol & Wisconsin Territory 1836
Southwest Wisconsin was a political hub in the 1830s, when Wisconsin transitioned from a territory to a state. The first governor of the Wisconsin Territory (in 1836), Henry Dodge, was from nearby Mineral Point, and the first official governor of the state of Wisconsin (in 1848) was Nelson Dewey of Cassville. The Legislative Assembly, under the direction of Gov. Henry Dodge, held session at the first state capitol in Belmont from Oct. 25-Dec. 9, 1836, a total of 46 days.
They passed 42 acts that shaped the government of the Wisconsin Territory, and later the state. The largest debate surrounded the permanent location for the territory’s capitol to be located further from the Iowa Territory border, to ensure that the capitol would still be in Wisconsin after the Iowa Territory separated from the Wisconsin Territory two years later. Eventually Madison was chosen as the new location for the state’s capitol.
After the capitol moved, the buildings were abandoned and fell into disrepair. In the early 1900s, restoration efforts began and the First Capitol became a Wisconsin Historical Society site in 1994.
Stop by the buildings at 18904 Cty. Hwy. G, northwest of Belmont, although you might want to wait until the snow melts. Tours are available seasonally, May-October. More details can be found at www.firstcapitol.org.
Also check out nearby attractions such as Belmont Mound State Park, the World’s Largest ‘M’, The Mining & Rollo Jamison Museums, Rustic Road No. 75, Pendarvis Historic Site, Mineral Point Railroad Museum and Shullsburg Badger Mining Museum.
Mineral Point Celebrity Connections
Following the death of 99-year-old Betty White — a beloved comedic actress best known for parts in The Mary Tyler Moore Show, The Golden Girls and Hot in Cleveland — a question has been circling locally about her final resting place. Some in Mineral Point have been especially interested because Betty’s husband, Allen Ludden, is a Mineral Point native who is buried in Graceland Cemetery in Mineral Point.
Allen Ludden, an actor, television personality, emcee and gameshow host, was best known for hosting the gameshow Password, where he and Betty White met. The couple married in 1963. He died of stomach cancer in June 1981 and Betty White never remarried. She died on Dec. 31, 2021 of natural causes, just 17 days from her 100th birthday.
Speculation that she will be laid to rest beside Allen Ludden, whom she called the “love of her life,” in Mineral Point, has now been dismissed, according to her agent Jeff Witjas. Betty White is originally from Oak Park, Ill., and since 1978 has lived in Carmel, Calif.
Info for this post was gathered from IMDB.com and wikipedia.com.
Point of Beginning
Hazel Green, WI – Grant County
One of the coolest historic markers I’ve discovered is on the Illinois-Wisconsin border just south of Hazel Green, where Grant and Lafayette counties meet.
The “Point of Beginning” historic marker is significant because in the 1830s-1860s all points in Wisconsin were surveyed from this point of beginning. Every boundary of every county, city, village, township, farm and position of roads, lakes and streams. Near the historic marker, found at the state line on Hwy. 80 near Hazel Green, the point of beginning documents the intersection of Illinois’s northern boundary and the 4th Principal Meridian.
Thirty-five years of surveying this state started on this piece of land in Southwest Wisconsin!
An excerpt from one of the signs at this location:
“From above, southwestern Wisconsin looks like a patchwork quilt composed of neat rectangular farm fields. But it wasn’t always this way. Prairie grasses once waved in the breeze and oak trees stood guard. Ho-Chunk (Winnegago) camped along nearby streams. All this began changing in the early 1820s, when southern and eastern entrepreneurs started lead mining in southwestern Wisconsin. Eventually, these newcomers all wanted the same thing – to purchase land and settle here. But they couldn’t. Before they could, the Ho-Chunk had to sell their land, and the U.S. Government had to survey and divide it.”
The survey was started in 1831, the first land was sold in 1834 and by 1848, Wisconsin achieved statehood.
This post is part of a series, Explore Southwest Wisconsin History.
Big Springs
By Dena Nechkash
With no signs along the highway or any clues to its existence, it’s no wonder that Big Springs has remained a hidden gem for so long! Tucked away in a rural valley in Iowa County, near Highland, Wis., is a small recreational area with a few water features worth stopping to see.
The roads to get to Big Springs follow the ridge past many farms before plunging down a meandering hillside, leading to a bridge and small parking area. After I parked, I checked out the brilliant blue water at the bridge and was rewarded with many active brown trout swimming in the clear waters. Big Springs is a fishery area, where the Wisconsin DNR is monitoring the fish population in association with a beaver dam built nearby. The area is designated as Exceptional Resource Waters (ERWs), or “surface waters that provide outstanding recreational opportunities, support valuable fisheries and wildlife habitat, have good water quality and are not significantly impacted by human activities.” Hint, hint… don’t mess it up!
Start hiking along the trail into the woods at the parking area and you’ll pass an oak grove, see the beaver dam, find some beautiful scenes of the river valley and eventually end at Big Springs. It isn’t a long walk. You’ll be there in just a few short minutes. A path up the hillside (be careful, it is steep) leads you to the headwater spring, where the water gushes out of the ground. It’s pretty amazing to see how much water comes from that opening in the earth.
Remember that this recreation area has many uses, including hunting. Make sure to dress appropriately and don’t impact others who may be hunting for deer, turkey, small game or waterfowl. Other recreational opportunities include bird watching, fishing, wildlife viewing, berry picking and hiking.
It really is a neat little detour. The roads to get there are fun to drive and once you arrive, there’s plenty to see and do. Fun Fact: you’ll find Spurgeon Vineyards & Winery just down the road! Take a trip and get out and explore Southwest Wisconsin!
Directions: From Hwy. 80 in Highland, WI, take Cty. Q. Several miles on that road, turn right onto Big Spring Road. Follow that to the DNR sign where there is a small parking area and trailhead.
Great Fall Color
By Dee Nechkash
While we hoped the fall color would trickle in this year, showing itself over the first few weeks of October, most of Southwest Wisconsin has remained green in the warm, wet autumn conditions. Until now.
I thought maybe it was a fluke as I took a windy county road from Platteville to Potosi, with the hillsides draped in vibrant yellows. Everyone had been telling me we wouldn’t have much for fall color, but it is just fashionably late this year! As I snaked my way down Potosi’s Main Street (possibly the longest Main Street in Wisconsin?), more colorful hillsides were revealed. At Potosi Point, a popular fishing and bird watching spot along the Mississippi River, located on the southern edge of Potosi, a pocket of brilliant red and orange leaves lined the Great River Road.
My suggestion: get out and explore the Great River Road. It is a multi-state highway that follows the Mighty Mississippi. Potosi is just one stop along this trail, which winds its way along the bluffs and valleys of the Mississippi River. Learn more about Wisconsin’s part of this All-American Highway at https://www.wigrr.com/ .
Another great option for fall color viewing is Rustic Road 99, which starts at the entrance to Potosi Point. Take this winding road through the hills and valleys along the Mississippi River for some spectacular scenery.
Find Fall Color
By Dena Nechkash
With Southwest Wisconsin’s fall color peak just two weeks off (third week of October), you can start looking in some of your favorite places for pockets of red, orange and gold.
While the driftless hillsides aren’t yet speckled in vibrant colors, they will be soon. Travel Wisconsin has reporters throughout the state recording the fall color stages for every county. The results are available at https://www.travelwisconsin.com/fall-color-report and they are updated every Sunday evening.
I had a few hours to spare and went looking for fall color in Iowa County. Governor Dodge State Park had several pockets of vibrant color, but the green is hanging on strong at this point. When it is at its peak, the golden tunnel of trees along Cox Hollow Lake can be breathtaking. It is worth checking out in the next couple of weeks! Below are some pictures from today’s excursion in Governor Dodge State Park. There is one pic from Ludden Lake, too.
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